Heat Pump Installation Guide
Installing a heat pump is a significant investment that can dramatically improve your home's comfort while reducing energy costs. A properly installed heat pump system can deliver efficient heating and cooling for 15-20 years, making professional installation critical to long-term performance and reliability. This comprehensive guide explains everything you need to know about heat pump installation in New Zealand, from initial site assessment through final commissioning.
Unlike portable heaters that simply plug into a wall socket, heat pumps require professional installation involving electrical work, refrigerant handling, and structural modifications. New Zealand's Building Code and electrical safety regulations mandate that heat pump installations be performed by licensed tradespeople - specifically, a licensed refrigeration technician for the refrigerant work and a registered electrician for the electrical connections.
The Complete Installation Process
Pre-Installation Site Assessment
Before any physical work begins, a qualified installer will conduct a comprehensive site assessment of your property. This crucial step determines the optimal placement for both indoor and outdoor units, identifies potential installation challenges, and ensures your home's electrical system can support the heat pump.
During the site visit, the installer will:
- Measure your space: Calculate room dimensions and ceiling heights to verify the heat pump capacity matches your heating requirements
- Assess wall structure: Check that walls can support indoor unit weight (typically 8-15kg) and identify wall framing for secure mounting
- Inspect electrical supply: Verify your switchboard has capacity for an additional circuit and identify the power supply route
- Plan refrigerant piping route: Determine the shortest, most practical path between indoor and outdoor units (minimizing pipe length improves efficiency)
- Evaluate drainage options: Identify where condensate water will drain, ensuring compliance with building codes
- Check outdoor placement: Assess ground surface, sun exposure, wind exposure, and distance from boundaries
- Review noise considerations: Consider proximity to bedrooms, neighboring properties, and noise-sensitive areas
Professional installers will also discuss your specific heating patterns, budget, and any aesthetic preferences during this assessment. This is your opportunity to ask questions about the installation process, expected timeline, and any preparations needed before installation day.
Indoor Unit Installation
The indoor unit (also called the head unit or wall-mounted unit) requires careful positioning for optimal air circulation, efficient operation, and minimal noise. Proper indoor unit placement is critical - incorrect installation height or positioning can significantly reduce heating effectiveness and increase operating noise.
The installation process involves:
- Marking mounting position: The installer uses a laser level to mark the exact position for the mounting bracket, typically 2.1-2.4 meters above the floor
- Drilling mounting holes: Holes are drilled into wall studs or solid material to ensure secure mounting
- Installing mounting bracket: The metal bracket is securely fastened to the wall - this bracket must support the full weight of the unit plus slight vibration during operation
- Drilling refrigerant pipe hole: A 65-75mm core hole is drilled through the wall at a slight downward angle (for condensate drainage) to accommodate refrigerant pipes, drainage tubing, and control wiring
- Hanging the indoor unit: The unit is carefully lifted and hooked onto the mounting bracket, ensuring it sits level and secure
- Connecting drain pipe: The condensate drain line is connected and routed through the wall, ensuring proper fall for gravity drainage
Experienced installers take care to maintain wall aesthetics, using appropriate-sized holes and installing cover sleeves or decorative rings around the pipe penetration. They'll also check that the unit is level (using a spirit level) as any tilt can cause drainage problems or excess noise.
Outdoor Unit Installation
The outdoor unit (compressor/condenser) is the heart of your heat pump system, containing the compressor, condenser coil, and fan. This unit requires stable mounting, adequate clearances for airflow, and protection from harsh weather conditions while remaining accessible for maintenance.
Outdoor installation steps include:
- Preparing the base: Installing a concrete pad, wall bracket, or roof stand depending on the mounting location. The base must be level, stable, and positioned away from drainage paths
- Positioning for clearances: Ensuring minimum clearances (typically 200-300mm from walls, 500mm in front for airflow) as specified by the manufacturer
- Securing the unit: Bolting the outdoor unit to the prepared base or bracket using vibration-dampening mounts to minimize operational noise
- Installing weather protection: In exposed locations, installers may add rain shields or snow covers to protect the unit
- Checking for vibration: Ensuring the mounting is solid and won't transmit vibration noise into building structures
In New Zealand's varying climate conditions, outdoor unit placement requires careful consideration. Coastal areas need protection from salt spray, Auckland and Wellington need protection from strong winds, and southern regions may benefit from positioning that receives winter sun to improve cold-weather performance.
Refrigerant Pipe and Electrical Connection
Connecting the indoor and outdoor units involves installing copper refrigerant pipes and electrical wiring - work that must be performed by licensed tradespeople to comply with New Zealand regulations and maintain manufacturer warranties.
This phase includes:
- Running refrigerant lines: Installing pre-insulated copper pipes (liquid and gas lines) between units. Proper pipe sizing, secure mounting, and minimizing bends all affect system efficiency
- Flaring and connecting pipes: Creating leak-proof connections at both indoor and outdoor units using proper flaring tools
- Installing dedicated circuit: A registered electrician installs a dedicated circuit breaker (typically 16A or 20A depending on unit size) and runs cable from the switchboard to the outdoor unit
- Connecting control wiring: Running low-voltage control cables between units for temperature sensing and system communication
- Pressure testing: Testing the refrigerant system for leaks using nitrogen pressure before introducing refrigerant
- Vacuuming the system: Using a vacuum pump to remove all air and moisture from refrigerant lines (critical step - moisture causes compressor damage)
- Releasing refrigerant: Opening valves to allow pre-charged refrigerant to flow through the system, or adding additional refrigerant if required by pipe length
Proper refrigerant handling is critical for system performance and environmental protection. R32 refrigerant (used in most modern systems) operates at specific pressures, and incorrect charging significantly reduces efficiency and can damage the compressor.
System Testing and Commissioning
Once physical installation is complete, professional installers conduct comprehensive testing to verify the system operates correctly, safely, and efficiently. This commissioning process ensures you receive the full performance and efficiency you've paid for.
Testing procedures include:
- Electrical safety checks: Verifying correct voltage, proper earthing, and secure electrical connections
- Refrigerant pressure verification: Checking system pressures match manufacturer specifications for ambient temperature
- Leak detection: Using electronic leak detectors to verify all refrigerant connections are completely sealed
- Operational testing: Running the system through heating and cooling modes to verify proper operation
- Airflow measurement: Checking that air discharge temperature and volume meet specifications
- Noise level check: Operating the system and verifying noise levels are acceptable
- Drainage verification: Ensuring condensate drains freely without backup or leaking
- Remote control programming: Setting up the remote control, configuring timer functions, and testing all operational modes
Quality installers will provide you with a thorough demonstration of your new heat pump, explaining all remote control functions, recommended operating modes, filter cleaning procedures, and energy-saving tips. They should leave you confident in operating your system and knowing what to expect during different seasons.
Legal and Technical Requirements in New Zealand
Heat pump installations in New Zealand must comply with several regulations designed to ensure safety, performance, and environmental protection. Understanding these requirements helps you choose qualified installers and ensures your installation meets all legal obligations.
Electrical Safety Requirements
Legal Compliance: All electrical work must be performed by a registered electrician who will issue a Certificate of Compliance (COC) upon completion. This certificate is legally required and may be requested during property sales or insurance claims.
- Dedicated circuit: Heat pumps require their own circuit breaker (typically 16A for units up to 5kW, 20A for larger units) to prevent overloading existing circuits
- Cable sizing: Electrical cable must be appropriately sized for the current draw and cable run length
- Circuit protection: Proper circuit breaker with appropriate trip rating installed in your switchboard
- Earthing: Correct earthing of all metal components to prevent electric shock
- Isolation switch: An accessible disconnect switch for servicing
- Weatherproof connections: All outdoor electrical connections must use weatherproof junction boxes
Expect electrical work to add $300-$800 to your installation cost depending on distance from switchboard and any necessary switchboard upgrades.
Structural and Building Requirements
Building Consent: Most standard heat pump installations in New Zealand do not require building consent. However, consent may be necessary if:
- The property is a heritage building or in a special character zone
- Structural modifications are required (beyond simple wall penetration)
- The outdoor unit is roof-mounted and exceeds weight limits
- Installation affects weathertightness or structural integrity
Structural Considerations:
- Wall strength: Walls must support 8-15kg indoor unit weight. Lightweight walls may need reinforcement
- Weatherproofing: All wall penetrations must be properly sealed to maintain weathertightness (critical for Building Code compliance)
- Outdoor unit base: Must be stable, level, and able to support 30-80kg depending on unit size
- Drainage: Condensate must drain appropriately without creating ponding or affecting neighboring properties
Council and Noise Regulations
District Plan Compliance: Each council in New Zealand has specific rules about heat pump installations, particularly regarding noise and boundary setbacks.
- Boundary setbacks: Most councils require outdoor units to be at least 1-3 meters from property boundaries (check your local district plan)
- Noise limits: Outdoor units must comply with district plan noise limits, typically 50dB during day, 40dB at night measured at the boundary
- Heritage areas: Additional restrictions may apply in heritage zones or on heritage-listed buildings
- Apartment buildings: Body corporate rules often govern heat pump installations in multi-unit developments
- Rental properties: Landlords must ensure proper consents are obtained before installation
Most quality heat pumps operate at 19-30dB (indoor) and 40-55dB (outdoor), easily meeting council requirements when properly positioned.
Refrigerant Handling and Certification
Legal Requirements: Only licensed refrigeration technicians can handle refrigerant gases in New Zealand. This licensing ensures environmental protection and system safety.
- License requirement: Your installer must hold a current Tradesperson License issued by the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Board
- R32 refrigerant: Modern systems use R32, a mildly flammable refrigerant requiring specific handling procedures
- Leak testing: System must be pressure-tested before refrigerant introduction
- Proper charging: Refrigerant must be charged to manufacturer specifications using calibrated equipment
- No DIY: It's illegal for unlicensed individuals to open refrigerant circuits or add/remove refrigerant
Always verify your installer's license and ensure they provide proper certification upon completion.
Installation Best Practices for Optimal Performance
Following manufacturer guidelines and industry best practices ensures your heat pump delivers maximum efficiency, minimal noise, and long service life. Here are the critical installation standards professional installers should meet:
Indoor Unit Placement
- Height: 2.1-2.4m above floor - This ensures good air circulation without cold air blowing directly on occupants
- Central location: Position centrally on the longest wall for even heat distribution
- Away from heat sources: Keep at least 1m from fireplaces, ovens, or direct sunlight which affect temperature sensing
- Clearances: Maintain 10-15cm clearance from ceiling and 10cm from side walls for proper airflow
- Avoid obstructions: Don't install above wardrobes, shelving, or furniture that blocks airflow
- Remote control line-of-sight: Consider where you'll use the remote control from
Outdoor Unit Placement
- Level, stable surface: Maximum 2-3 degrees deviation from level - use concrete pads or wall brackets rated for unit weight
- Airflow clearances: Minimum 200mm from walls, 500mm clear space in front of air discharge, 300mm above unit
- Protection from elements: Shelter from prevailing winds, avoid snow accumulation areas, protect from falling leaves/debris
- Noise consideration: Position away from bedroom windows (yours and neighbors'), avoid acoustic amplification near corners
- Service accessibility: Leave room for filter cleaning, coil maintenance, and future service work
- Drainage: Ensure defrost water can drain without freezing or pooling
- Vibration isolation: Use rubber anti-vibration pads to minimize noise transmission
Refrigerant Pipe Installation
- Proper insulation: All refrigerant lines must be fully insulated to prevent condensation and efficiency loss
- Correct pipe sizing: Use manufacturer-specified pipe diameter (typically 6mm liquid, 10-16mm gas line)
- Minimize pipe length: Keep runs as short as practical - every extra meter reduces efficiency slightly
- Minimal bends: Reduce bends and kinks which restrict refrigerant flow and reduce efficiency
- Secure mounting: Support pipes every 1-1.5 meters to prevent sagging and vibration
- Protect from damage: Route pipes where they won't be damaged by foot traffic, garden tools, or lawn mowers
- UV protection: Use UV-resistant insulation or conduit for pipes exposed to sunlight
Drainage System
- Correct fall angle: Minimum 1:100 gradient (1cm drop per meter) for gravity drainage
- Proper pipe size: Use 16-20mm drainage pipe to prevent blockages
- Condensate trap: Install trap to prevent odors and maintain drainage seal
- Drain termination: Route to proper drainage point - never into ceiling cavities or wall spaces
- Overflow protection: Include overflow provision or safety switch to prevent water damage if main drain blocks
- Winter protection: In cold regions, insulate external drain pipes to prevent freezing
- Easy cleaning access: Position drain so blockages can be easily cleared
What to Expect on Installation Day
A standard single indoor/outdoor unit installation typically takes 3-4 hours for experienced installers. Multi-room systems or complex installations may take a full day. Professional installers should:
- Protect your floors and furnishings with drop sheets
- Clean up all debris and vacuum drill dust
- Test the system thoroughly before leaving
- Provide a demonstration of all functions
- Leave you with user manuals and warranty documentation
- Provide electrical Certificate of Compliance
- Explain filter cleaning and maintenance procedures
Frequently Asked Questions
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